Humane Society International


We found Ruby in a barren cage on a dog meat farm in South Korea. When HSI’s Adam Parascandola first saw her, he feared she wouldn’t survive. But with a little time and a whole lot of love (especially from Adam, who has now adopted her), Ruby was able to shed her fear — and her terrible past.

Here, in Adam’s words, is their story:

After our first visit to the farm for vaccinations, etc., we had real concerns about Ruby and her ability to survive in that environment. I pulled her off the farm and boarded her at a vet clinic because she was weak and anemic. She lived in absolute squalor and was completely filthy. She seemed to be having trouble even walking normally.

Because she weighed only about four pounds, I worried about how she would do on the flight to the United States with the other dogs and determined it would be safest to fly her back with me. I contacted a rescue on the east coast of the U.S. and they agreed to take her.

When I picked Ruby up from the vet clinic, she was clean (having had two baths), but still completely shut down. She did not seem able to take in anything that was going on and preferred to hide in her bag. Still, when I would take her out, she would cling to me. On the flight, we had the last row of seats to ourselves and I set her bag on the seat next to me. She was completely quiet, but when I would unzip the bag and put my hand in it, she would lay her face across my fingers. She ate my entire dinner roll!

Finally when I reached home, she was at first too terrified to even come out of her bag. It was like she had never seen such a large space as a room and did not know what to do. Since we had flown all night and were exhausted, I went to take a nap. I let her into the bed with me and she immediately crawled up next to me. From that point on, she wanted to go wherever I went and overcame any fears she had to be near me. She didn’t miss a beat learning the steps to the bed and couch. She quickly learned how much fun toys are and has been non-stop ever since.

She is extremely curious and very playful. She is always into everything and a laugh a minute. She is so lively and such a good-natured, happy little dog. I am impressed with how quickly she has overcome her terrible start to life. It gives me hope for all these dogs. Though exposed to such cruelty, they can truly shine when given love. Please support our campaign against the dog meat trade.

Humane Society International


  • Loud noises and flashing lights can scare animals. The HSUS

Whilst Diwali celebrations can be great fun for people, pets can be left trembling, shaking, barking more and injured by fireworks. Light, noise and color can be frightening and chaotic for animals. Thousands suffer burns every year from firecrackers. Moreover, animal shelters report a dramatic increase in pets lost during the commotion of the celebration.

“Loud fireworks displays cause noise, which can be stressful for our pets,” says N. G Jayasimha, Humane Society International/India managing director. “It’s best to choose small crackers and ensure a safe Diwali for our furry friends at home and around our neighborhoods.”

Take precautions by following these simple tips:

  • Keep your pets indoors and in a familiar room. Pets have a heightened sense of hearing so the jolts and loud noises cause many animals to flee in search of safe haven.
  • Keep all doors and windows closed and draw the curtains to reduce the noise. Supply pets with enough food and water and ensure someone can stay with them to comfort them.
  • Store fireworks safely in a closed box, somewhere cool and dry, and out of reach of pets. Do not keep fireworks containers under stairs or exposed in passages.
  • Decorate with lights, lamps and diyas that are friendlier to the environment and animals by giving off less smoke and noise.
  • Refrain from bursting crackers near an animal shelter or zoo. Noise can cause panic and fear. Pollution from burning firecrackers is also harmful to their health.
  • Take dogs for a walk during the daytime before the celebrations begin. Never walk them near where others are lighting firecrackers.
  • Consult a veterinarian if pets are prone to acute anxiety or distress from loud noises. Check their availability during Diwali in case of emergency.
  • If you feed stray animals around your neighborhood, make sure that they are wearing tags labeled with their names and your phone numbers. In case they run away because of the merry-making, people who find them will be able to contact you.
  • Make a first aid kit in preparation for helping injured animals. Have a bucket full of water handy for emergency and for putting used sparklers into.
  • Ensure pets are wearing collars and identification tags with current contact information. All pets, even those kept indoors, should wear collars with identification tags at all times.
  • Keep contact information for local municipal corporations and surrounding shelters handy and approach them immediately in cases of lost pets. If you find a lost pet, either take her to the address on the tag or a local animal shelter.

Happy festival to you!

Humane Society International


  • Fernando Alonso Herrero

Members of the European Parliament have voted in favour of ending EU subsidies to farmers who specifically breed bulls for bullfights. Joanna Swabe, Ph.D., Humane Society International/Europe’s executive director, issued the following statement:

“Bullfighting is a cruel practice that inflicts a great amount of pain and suffering on bulls. While the EU cannot legislate to ban bullfighting, it can stop granting farming subsidies to bull breeders. These subsidies are indirectly helping to keep the cruel practice of bullfighting alive. We applaud the fact that MEPs have sent a clear signal to the European Commission and EU Member States that it is unacceptable for EU funds to be used to finance any part of an industry that involves the torture of sentient animals for public entertainment, even if it is indirectly.”

A majority of MEPs voted in favour of an amendment to a Parliamentary report on the General Budget of the EU for 2016, which was tabled by Estonian MEP Indrek Tarand on behalf of the Greens/EFA group. This amendment demands that “CAP appropriations or any other appropriations from the budget should not be used for the financing of lethal bullfighting activities”.

Within the space of just three days, more than 20,000 EU citizens signed HSI/Europe’s petition to MEPs urging them to support this amendment.

The Parliament’s report will now be sent to the Finance Ministers of the 28 EU Member States, who will have to reach an agreement with the European Parliament with respect to the EU budget for 2016 and whether the budget appropriations may be used to subsidise activities associated with bullfighting.

Media contact: Wendy Higgins whiggins@hsi.org  +44(0)7989 972 423

Humane Society International


  • A Scottish Wildcat. Adrian Bennett

  • A trap in situ. Wildcat Haven

  • Spay/neuter saves lives! Wildcat Haven

  • Scottish Wildcat in profile. Adrian Bennett

  • Elusive animals. Adrian Bennett

Incredibly, there may only be 35 pure Scottish Wildcats left in the wild. Our only surviving native feline, they are on the edge of extinction and urgently need help.

HSI is putting compassionate conservation into action, working with Wildcat Haven to protect these rare animals by sterilising domestic and feral cats to minimize cross-breeding — one of the greatest threats to their survival, along with persecution by humans and loss of habitat.

Trap-vaccinate-neuter-release

The vets at Wildcat Haven are practicing, in west Scotland, the same techniques we use in our well-proven TVNR programmes for dogs and cats around the world, from Bhutan to the Philippines. By spay/neutering all companion, stray and hybrid cats within identified hotspots, the team is creating a secure area where Wildcats are given the best chance to breed, in familiar territory, with their own kind.

Compassionate conservation

This programme promotes the use of humane, non-lethal methods to keep the domestic and feral cat populations in check, and also ensures, through vet visits and vaccinations, that all the cats — domestic, hybrid and Wild — are as healthy as they can be: a win for all the animals involved!

Donate now to help support more programmes like this to save animals!

Supporting the work of the Wildcat Haven team allows researchers and experienced vets to be on hand throughout the year, checking, trapping and spay/neutering all the cats who share the Wildcats’ range.

What they do:

  • Researchers comb the land and set camera traps to record evidence of all cats using the area: domestic moggies, ferals, hybrids and pure Scottish Wildcats; the data is assessed and trapping areas identified.
  • The veterinary team oversees the setting of humane traps every autumn and winter. These are baited with food and carefully situated to ensure the cats are well-protected from the elements.
  • A temporary veterinary clinic is set up in the nearby community centre.
  • Experienced veterinary teams give each cat a full health check. It is vaccinated and sterilised, then given a good feed, before being returned to the same location where it was caught.
  • Wildcat Haven encourages local residents to have their own companion animals spay/neutered and vaccinated, at no cost to themselves. This has proved to be a popular and much-appreciated service, with a high take-up rate.
  • Local schools and community groups are encouraged to get involved and learn more about the humane solutions available to help protect their rare local Scottish Wildcats.

The whole peninsula of Ardnamurchan, in the West Highlands, has been covered and with our support, the team is now expanding its efforts into the surrounding area of Morvern to create a 500 square mile haven, across prime Scottish Wildcat territory.

Countries around the world where fur farming has been prohibited or restricted

Humane Society International


Which countries have prohibited or restricted fur farming?

For the latest updates, see the Fur Free Alliance website

 Country Legislation  Additional information
 Austria  Full Ban Came into effect in 2004
 Brazil  Area Ban (San Paolo) State of Sao Paolo introduced a fur farming ban in 2014 also an import ban in 2015
 Czech Republic  Full ban Agreed 2017. Effective 2019
 Croatia  Full Ban Introduced 2007 with 10 year phase out. Came into force 1 Jan 2017
 Belgium  Area Ban (potential for a full ban) Fox farming is banned in Wallonia and Brussels
 Bosnia & Herzegovina  Full Ban Effective 2018
 Denmark  Partial Ban 2009 ban on fox farming with phase-in until 2017 for most farms and 2023 for farms where fox farming is main income
 Germany  Phased out Effective 2022. Fur regulations were made stricter in 2017 with welfare requirements (to be implemented within 5 yrs) that effectively make fur farming unviable
 Hungary  Partial Ban Chinchilla and rabbit farming is still allowed
 India  Import Ban January 2017 adopted an import ban on mink, fox and chinchilla fur skins
 Japan  Phased out Not banned, but phased out; the last fur farm closed in November 2016
 Luxembourg  Potential Ban Effective 2019 if passed
 Netherlands  Full Ban 1995 banned fox farming; 1997 banned chinchilla farming; mink farming will be banned by 2024
 New Zealand  Phased out Prohibit the import of mink, which effectively bans mink farming
 Northern Ireland  Full Ban Full Ban in 2000
 Republic of Macedonia  Full Ban Full ban 2014 with 3-year phase-out
 Serbia  Full Ban Full Ban 2019
 Slovenia  Full Ban Full ban 2013, effective 1 Jan 2015
 Spain  Partial phase out Mink farming will be phased out
 Sweden  Partial Ban 1995 Sweden required that fox captivity must allow them to be active, dig and socialize with other foxes, effectively making fox farming economically unviable and the practice ended
 Switzerland  Phased out Farming of fur bearing animals is legally required to emulate zoo conditions, thus there are no fur farms in Switzerland
 United Kingdom  Full Ban Full Ban in 2000 effective from 2003
 USA  Area Ban (West Hollywood) In 2011, West Hollywood was the first city in the world to ban the sales of fur; the ban came into force in 2013

Humane Society International


  • Rabbits suffer and die to make frivolous keychains decorations.

Although the fur industry does its best to keep the cruelty out of sight, suffering is a common ingredient in all methods of procuring fur, from fur factory farming to trapping.

On fur factory farms around the world, millions of raccoon dogs, rabbits, foxes, mink, chinchillas, and other animals spend their lives in small wire cages, only to be killed by anal electrocution, by neck-breaking, or in gas chambers. Raccoon dogs have even been documented to be skinned alive.

The conditions on fur farms can be so barren and inadequate as to almost entirely prevent these wild species from exhibiting the natural behaviours so essential for their mental and physical well-being.

This can cause stress-related animal welfare problems, including stereotypical behaviour such as repetitive pacing or circling and head nodding. Self-mutilation and cannibalism are common, as are infected wounds and physical deformities, caused or exacerbated by lack of veterinary care.

Fox and raccoon dog fur farming in China: their miserable lives

In the wild, foxes have large territories within which they roam and hunt. They live in family groups and dig underground burrows in which to live and rear their young. In December 2015, we visited fur farms in China, each with thousands of animals.

On all the farms, the animals were kept for their entire lives in utterly barren cages in long lines, all with 2-4 animals crammed into a cage, or a single animal in a tiny cage.

The cages were entirely exposed to the elements, the bitter cold and the searing heat.

They were also entirely without environmental enrichment of any kind, and were too small in size to enable the animals any significant movement or sanctuary. The floors were wire mesh, which undoubtedly resulted in damage and pain to the feet and other body parts.

Our video footage (warning: graphic) shows foxes turning and pacing in their small cages, repeating the same pattern, time after time. The facilities appear filthy, with piles of faeces collected under all the cages. No vet was present during any of our visits, and no cleaning was witnessed at any of the facilities.

Brutal killing

Killing methods varied, some being stunned or killed by 220v electric shock before skinning, others killed by breaking the animal’s neck by hand, or by beating with metal sticks.

The killing is done by the farmers themselves or local people hired in. Our video clips have shown foxes receiving repeated electric shocks that do not kill them and being beaten with the iron bars in a way that does not render them unconscious.

The treatment of the foxes at the slaughter stage will have caused them considerable, prolonged physical pain, suffering and distress. This includes a fox being carried by the tail, which will have caused significant pain; killing by multiple inexpertly delivered blows to the head, face and neck during which the animal writhes in pain and is clearly still conscious; one fox hit on the mandible which is utterly the wrong area for stunning and will have fractured its jaw and caused substantial pain; and animals inexpertly killed by makeshift style electrocution apparatus.

HSI/UK’s veterinarian Professor Alastair MacMillan studied the footage and concluded that the nature of this equipment results in several failed attempts to immediately stun the fox, and each time severe pain is undoubtedly caused, resulting in vocalisation and attempts by the fox to avoid the metal probe.

It is highly likely that mains voltage was being used, which in some circumstances may be insufficient to cause death and allow the animal to recover consciousness after a certain time. The current appeared to be delivered through the length of the animal, rather than across the head, although the nature of the apparatus meant that the way that it was delivered and the current received by the animal was highly arbitrary. The levity of the operators when the fox was not successfully killed implies a disregard for the animal’s welfare.

Rabbit farming and slaughter in China

Our video footage (warning: graphic) from two rabbit breeding farms and a slaughter facility in China comes from a major fur farming province in North China.

The slaughter facility kills 10,000 rabbits every day; the workers are paid RMB 0.4 (around 4p) for killing one rabbit.

At both farms we visited, the rabbits were kept in woefully inadequate conditions that do not provide even the basic care to maintain their physical or mental welfare. They live in small, filthy, overcrowded, barren wire cages with no environmental enrichment, meaning that the rabbits are not able to perform any of their natural behaviours like jumping, running, digging or hiding.

Most rabbits have no bedding, meaning they spend their entire lives standing and bearing their full weight on the slatted floors, which can lead to ulcerative pododermatitis (hock sores), an extremely painful condition. Our footage shows large volumes of faeces on the cage floors and surrounding areas.

Our investigators were told that cages are checked daily, however there were some clearly sick rabbits left in the cages, as well as some dead rabbits. Animals were seen with their feet caught in the slatted flooring. No vet was seen at either facility during our visits.

Rabbits at the farms we visited were killed and skinned at 5-7 months old.

The slaughterhouse we visited had at that time around 100,000 rabbit furs in its inventory. The rabbits are killed in front of each other and can hear the distress screams (as in our videos) of each other being slaughtered.

We can see rabbits physically shaking in our video, indicating fear and distress. The slaughter process involves an attempt to render the animal unconscious with a blow to the head, followed by an immediate cut to the neck to bleed the animal out.

During transport to slaughter, the rabbits are confined in even smaller wire cages, only just big enough for the body of a rabbit to fit touching all four sides and roof of the cage, squashing the rabbit close to the floor with its head and ears. This will be painful and distressing for these highly sensitive animals, who then have their cages piled high on the back of a pickup truck, at least four cages deep, with no protection from the elements. During transport, and depending on the climate, rabbits on the outside would be exposed to either extreme cold or intense sunlight or rain. Rabbits on the inside are surrounded by the bodies of dozens of other rabbits and could easily overheat.

Painful and frightening slaughter

The rabbits are picked up out of their cage by the ‘scruff’ or their ears, and struck on the head with the blade of a knife before being hung upside down by one foot on the shackle line.

The blow to the head seen in the video is only of moderate force and unlikely to be hard enough to render the rabbits unconscious before their throats are cut. In some cases, they are even hit in entirely the wrong place (on the rostrum i.e. forward of the eyes) instead of the cranium.

Several of the rabbits can be seen raising their heads in a coordinated fashion whilst suspended, indicating that they were still conscious when their throats were cut. The ventral neck of the rabbits is cut resulting in, in some cases, violent whole-body movements and immediate screaming, meaning these rabbits are reacting to the pain of having their throat cut and to being hung from the shackle. This is all in full view and earshot of other rabbits waiting their turn to die.

HSI/UK’s veterinary adviser Professor Alastair MacMillan, says: “As a veterinarian, I am shocked to see rabbits kept in such appallingly inadequate conditions. There is no question in my mind that these rabbits will have endured extremely severe and prolonged physical suffering, fear and distress, and a death that is both painful and frightening.”

The footage gathered by HSI/UK in China is in no way exceptional or unique to China. Film gathered by other organisations in countries around the world, including Poland and France, reveals very similar conditions: cramped, dirty cages, filled with animals denied the ability to act out their natural behaviours and suffering both physically and mentally.

Humane Society International


Rats and mice have the same basic needs as all animals — food, warmth and shelter. These needs often bring them into close proximity with humans and, as a result, they are demonised as ‘pests’. But in reality, they do not set out deliberately to frighten or cause us problems. Here are some facts that we hope will make you see rats and mice in a new light:

  • Rats have been found to act selflessly to save each other from harm, forsaking food in order to free a trapped mate or save another from drowning.
  • They enjoy being tickled! When they are happy or playing, they let out a sound that is similar to laughter, consisting of high-frequency chirps that are beyond the range of human hearing.
  • Rats are very social animals. They groom each other and sleep together. They suffer from boredom and loneliness when solitary.
  • Domestic rats enjoy human company and can form deep bonds with their person but giving them companionship of their own kind is a better way of ensuring they are happy and healthy.
  • It is an urban myth that you are never more than six feet away from a rat. But even if one is close by, there is no need to panic! Although very curious, rats are also shy, preferring to run away rather than confront a potential threat.
  • Alongside bats, whales and humans, mice are one of the few mammals that sing. Male mice court females by serenading them with their own ‘mouse song’ and have been recorded after mating singing like birds but at ultrasonic frequencies.
  • Mice are gregarious and social animals who form a complex organisation within their group and find isolation incredibly stressful. Removing even one individual can cause upset that affects the welfare of the whole colony.
  • They are inquisitive and adventurous and spend the day roaming their territory, exploring anything new or out of the ordinary. But they tend to stay close to home, only venturing 3-8m from their nest. • Small in size but big in appetite, mice eat around 15 to 20 times per day, but in tiny amounts at a time. This is why they build their homes near places that have readily accessible food sources… such as kitchens.
  • Within their intricate underground homes, mice are incredibly clean, tidy and organised. They have specific areas for sleeping, storing food, and going to the toilet.

Humane Society International / Global


Rats and mice live alongside us, thrive because of us, and survive in spite of our attempts to eradicate them. While they mean us no harm, the presence of unwanted rodent visitors can, at times, undoubtedly cause problems for people, In order to ‘control’ them, a selection of products is available including repellent sprays, ultrasonic devices, poisons and several different types of traps, some lethal and some intended for live release.

HSI advocates that the default solution should be to implement humane methods of deterrence and eviction instead of killing them. This is for two important reasons:

  • Killing mice and rats typically causes suffering. This may be brief but is often drawn out over hours, days or even — in the case of some poisons — weeks.
  • Lethal methods do not offer a viable long-term solution. Treating the symptom by eliminating a single rat/mouse — or even an entire colony — is ultimately futile unless the conditions that encouraged them to take up residence in the first place are addressed. Over time, others will simply move in to the vacated territory.

Prevention and deterrence

Like all animals, rats and mice require food and shelter and will seek out easily accessible sources of both. Rats prefer to be outside but mice like to live indoors and can enter your home by squeezing through very small spaces, for example air vents, and gaps around gas and water pipes. Prevention is better than cure: seal off holes and don’t tempt mice and rats in with easily accessible food supplies. The food that we throw way in our rubbish or compost bin, leave out for our companion animals and put out for wild animals whose visits we do enjoy, such as hedgehogs and birds, provides rats and mice with a tempting buffet. Many rat ‘infestations’ are the result of bird-feeding.

As soon as a rat or mouse problem is identified, it is important to take swift action. Identify the source of food that attracted them and remove it. Humanely remove the animals and then seal up holes to keep others from gaining entry.

Home and Kitchen:

  • Mice need only around one tenth of an ounce of food each day: crumbs are enough to sustain them. Clean (and keep clean) all areas where food and crumbs may have dropped, such as under the toaster and down the sides of the cooker and fridge.
  • Store rodent-susceptible food (e.g. crackers, cereal, pasta, bread, chocolate) in cupboards in metal or glass containers.
  • Bags of dry cat/dog food should also be stored in rodent-proof containers and not left out in cellars, basements or cupboards.
  • Do not leave out cat or dog food in dishes overnight.
  • Rodents have been found to avoid the smell of peppermint, spearmint or eucalyptus. Soak cotton wool balls in one of these oils ensuring they smell very strongly and leave along work surfaces, underneath units and anywhere that could be an entry point. Refresh the oil for several weeks after you believe they have gone to discourage them from returning.
  • Block all potential access holes with wire wool, ’mouse mesh’ (available online), or a strong sealant that will harden quickly. Don’t use caulk or other rubber or plastic fillers because mice can easily chew through them.

Please note: Plug-in ultrasonic devices are not reliable.

Lofts, basements and sheds:

  • Soak rags in a non-toxic repellent liquid (available from some hardware and DIY stores or online) and leave in the corners.
  • Rub peppermint, spearmint or eucalyptus oil along beams and other areas where rodents travel.

Garden:

  • Stop feeding birds in your garden to encourage the rats to move on. Only resume once you are sure they have gone.
  • If you choose to resume bird-feeding, do not throw food on the ground, put it in feeders with trays underneath and do not hang the feeders close to your house or trees. Put food out little and often and do not leave uneaten food on the ground overnight.
  • Keep grass short, thin out shrubs, remove cover such as piles of wood and get rid of clutter.
  • If you know where their runs are, expose the tunnels and place obstacles such as pebbles and leaves in the entrance/exit points (so as to cause an annoyance but not block the hole). Used cat litter can also be tipped down burrows. This will encourage them to relocate.
  • Grow mint, spearmint and/or citronella plants.
  • Animal-repelling products from garden centres and DIY shops can be scattered or sprayed but should obviously not be used if you have a companion cat or dog. Urine-soaked cat litter can also be an effective deterrent.

Live capture and release

Unfortunately, unless mice leave of their own volition, even with the best of intentions it is very difficult to deal with them in a way that doesn’t involve some risk for them or their offspring. Catching animals and releasing them away from the home should only be a last resort if you have not been able to encourage them to leave of their own accord. Whilst it is undoubtedly preferable to a slow and certain death from poisoning, there is no guarantee that indoor mice will survive in unfamiliar territory outside if they have been inside for generations, and their chances will be reduced further by cold weather. They may also leave behind young, dependent animals in the nest, who will perish. If you do need to address the situation urgently, either purchase a humane trap (available in some DIY/garden centres and hardware stores) or follow these steps for making a home-made version. Whichever trap you use it must be checked first thing in the morning, last thing at night and at least once more during the day and the animal released as soon as possible.

  • Use ‘mouse-mesh’ (available online) to cover air-vents and air bricks and use copper/wire wool or rapidly hardening sealer to block gaps around pipes in outside walls. Put draught excluders under outside doors to ensure that gaps are no more than 5mm.
  • Place a small plastic or metal wastepaper bin, around 28 cm deep, where signs of mice have been found, with a little shredded paper and some food in the bottom, for example peanut butter (do not use cheese).
  • Cover the top of the bin with a book, for example, leaving a 2cm gap on one side.
  • Use a pile of newspapers to make a ‘staircase’ next to the bin so that they can climb to the top and peer in through the gap. Upon smelling the food they should drop down to reach it, landing on the shredded paper, which will cushion their fall and allow them to feel safe whilst they are captive.
  • Captured mice should be released in the garden in dense vegetation (such as a hedge) or, even better, near a shed under which they can shelter, as far from the house as possible.
  • If, through gentle examination and being careful not to be bitten, you are able to ascertain that a female mouse is lactating, which would indicate young in the nest, you must make a decision as to how you wish to proceed. The humane choices are to let her go and readdress the problem later or search for the nest and relocate the family to somewhere safe and contained so you can release mother and young when they have grown.

After animals have been evicted or captured and released, it is vital that they are prevented from re-entering. Determining points of entry from outside to in is especially important.

Humane Society International / Global


Dr. William J. Weber/istock

Q: What are glue traps?

A: Glue traps, also known as glue boards, are trays coated with an extremely strong adhesive. Any animal who touches one becomes stuck and is unable to escape.

Q: Do glue traps kill the animals?

A: No. The animal is immobilised but not killed outright.

Q: What happens to animals caught by a glue trap?

A: Depending on how frequently the trap is checked, animals can be stuck anywhere from a hours to days. They may be trapped on their side, or face down, by all legs or just one, and will often cry out in distress. Trapped animals struggle to free themselves and may become more and more embedded in the glue. Some rodents break bones and tear off, or even bite through, their own limbs in an attempt to free themselves. After a fruitless struggle, they may succumb to exhaustion, collapse face down in the glue, and die of suffocation when the glue lodges in their nasal passages. Most often death comes from a combination of exhaustion and dehydration. This can take hours or even days.

Q: Do glue boards pose a risk to other animals?

A: Yes, glue traps are indiscriminate. Although typically used to catch mice and rats, there have been many reported incidents of non-target animals becoming trapped, including protected species like wild birds and bats, hedgehogs, fox cubs and even pet cats. The Scottish Animal Welfare Commission has concluded that there is ‘an undeniable risk of capture of non-target species”.

Q: Are glue boards a risk to humans?

A: Through no fault of their own, rodents are vectors for certain diseases, which are transmitted through their urine and faeces. Panicked animals will defecate and urinate out of stress and fear, meaning anyone handling a glue board with an animal stuck to it could potentially be exposed to disease organisms. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), the leading public health authorities in the US, advise against the use of glue traps for these reasons. Picking up a trap with a live animal stuck to it may also lead to the person’s being bitten.

Q: Where are glue traps banned?

A: In 2022, following advocacy efforts by HSI and other groups, the UK Government prohibited the use of glue traps across England under the Glue Traps (Offences) Act 2022, except for user holding a government-granted licence. Glue traps have already been outlawed in other countries, including Ireland, New Zealand, the Australian state of Victoria and Iceland. While in some countries, these traps remain widely available online as well as in corner shops, DIY and garden centres, hardware stores, the list of countries banning them is growing. The Scottish and Welsh governments have now also announced their intentions to implement a ban.

Q: What should you do if you find a glue trap, or if you have a live animal on a glue board?

A: If you live in England it is an offence to fail to disable a glue trap you have found where there is a risk of it capturing a rodent, without reasonable excuse. In some countries, it is the legal responsibility of the person who laid the trap to kill the animal ‘quickly and humanely’, However, the vast majority of glue trap packaging does not make this clear, nor carry any instructions for how to do it. In fact, our research found that fifty per cent of people wouldn’t know what to do with a live animal attached to a trap, or would deal with it in ways that would cause suffering and even be illegal under some countries’ animal welfare laws.

It is very difficult for untrained individuals to release an animal from a glue board without running the risk of inflicting further injuries, or possibly being injured themselves. Once unstuck, even if an animal appears unharmed, s/he could be injured in ways that aren’t immediately visible, or could need treatment for dehydration or exhaustion.

In all cases, please treat an animal caught on a glue board as an emergency. Here are instructions on how to help an animal caught in a glue trap.

Q: If a mouse or rat is suffering on a glue trap and can’t be released, is there a humane way of killing them?

A: The only method of killing a rodent on a glue trap that is regarded as ‘humane’ is with one sharp blow to the head. However this requires a firm, unwavering resolve and many people may find themselves too frightened, squeamish or upset to be able to do it. Forum users divulging details of what they have done with glue-trapped animals list leaving the animal to die on the trap, drowning the animal or throwing the trap away with a live animal still attached as methods of dispatch, all of which would cause unacceptable suffering.

Q: Is drowning an option?

A: No. The professional pest control industry and scientists agree that drowning is not humane. One experiment found the average time it takes for a rat to drown is 2.6 minutes. Setting an important legal precedent, in 2010 a man was convicted under the UK Animal Welfare Act of causing unnecessary suffering after he drowned a squirrel in a water butt.

Q: Are glue boards an effective long-term method of rodent control?

A: No. These devices may be effective at catching individual, or even a few, animals but they do not provide a long-term solution. Unless the conditions that encouraged the animals to take up residence in the first place are addressed and animals humanely evacuated and prevented from returning, it is highly likely that, over time, others will simply move into the vacated territory.

Q: What should you do if you have mice in the house or rats in the garden?

A: There are non-lethal ways of dealing with unwanted rodent visitors that are not only more humane, but also far more effective in the long-term, too. Read more about humane rodent solutions.

Humane Society International


Brown rat
Colin Varndell/Alamy

It is very difficult for untrained individuals to release an animal from a glue board without running the risk of inflicting further injuries, or possibly being injured themselves. Once unstuck, even if an animal appears unharmed, s/he could be injured in ways that aren’t immediately visible, or could need treatment for dehydration or extreme exhaustion.

In all cases, please treat an animal caught on a glue board as an emergency. Here are instructions on how to help an animal caught in a glue trap:

Whenever possible, the animal should be safely contained and immediately transported to a local wildlife rescue or vet. If you are unable to take the animal to either of those, this release method isn’t guaranteed, but it has been tried successfully. Please attempt it only in the event that you cannot take the animal to a trained professional. Wild animals can be dangerous at any time when handled, but especially so when they are trapped, terrified and defending themselves.

Supplies you will need:

a pair of thick gloves
a bottle of rapeseed or other cooking oil (baby oil can also be used, though it is not as effective)
a thick towel
a box or other secure container (with oxygen holes) in which to place the freed animal

1. Run hot water over the bottle for a couple of minutes until the oil in the bottle feels warm on your wrist, but is not hot enough to burn.

2. Put on the gloves. Gently restrain the animal near the head with a towel. (Place the towel near, but not over, the animal’s head.) Keep a firm but gentle grip on the animal.

3. With your other hand, gently massage the warmed oil into the animal’s fur, feathers or skin at the point where contact is being made with the board. It will take several minutes for the oil to start to soften the glue. Continue the massage until the animal becomes free from the glue board. This may take some time and a great deal of patience.

4. Continue to keep a firm but gentle grip and transfer him/her to the box or other container and transport as soon as possible to a wildlife rescue or vet. The animal should receive treatment for being “oiled,” as oil affects an animal’s ability to regulate his body temperature.

5. If there is nowhere local you can take the animal for professional treatment then keep him/her in a warm, dark, quiet and secure location until he/she is well enough to be released.

6. Offer sugar water via a dropper placed on the corner of the mouth so that the animal has the option of ingesting or not. Provide food such as oats, nuts, peanut butter on a piece of cracker or cereal, but it is unlikely the animal will eat when traumatised.

7. Resist the temptation to keep looking and checking: recovering animals need calm and quiet with minimal disturbance and interference.

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